Perfume 101

Perfume Vocabulary Glossary — 30 Fragrance Terms Every Indian Buyer Should Know

Fragrance reviewers throw around terms like sillage, accord, drydown and beast mode — and most Indian buyers nod and pretend to follow. Here’s the full glossary so you can actually read reviews with confidence.

Quick Answer: The 30 most important perfume terms: accord, note, pyramid, top/heart/base notes, sillage, projection, longevity, drydown, EDP/EDT, maceration, ambroxan, aldehyde, gourmand, fougere, chypre, niche, designer, dupe, decant, batch code, concentration, beast mode, compliments, skin scent, olfactory fatigue, patch test, IFRA, flanker, splash bottle, atomiser.

Structure terms

Term Meaning
Accord A blend of notes that acts as a single ‘smell’ (e.g., a ‘marine accord’ combines several molecules to smell like the ocean)
Note A single identifiable scent ingredient in a fragrance (e.g., rose note, vanilla note)
Pyramid The 3-layer structure of a fragrance: top, heart, base
Top notes First 0–30 minutes — citrus, herbs, aquatic
Heart notes 30 minutes–4 hours — florals, spices, the ‘character’
Base notes 4–10+ hours — musk, vanilla, oud, woods
Drydown The late-stage scent (base notes only) — what you smell 6+ hours in

Performance terms

Term Meaning
Sillage The trail you leave when you move — French for ‘wake’
Projection The radius of your scent bubble in still air
Longevity Total hours the perfume remains detectable on skin
Beast mode A scent with huge projection, huge sillage, and 10+ hour longevity
Skin scent When the fragrance sits close to the skin — intimate, detectable only up close
Compliments How often strangers comment — slang for a scent that gets noticed

Concentration terms

Term Meaning
Parfum / Extrait 20–40% fragrance oil — the strongest
EDP (Eau de Parfum) 15–20% oil — most common for premium fragrance
EDT (Eau de Toilette) 5–15% oil — lighter, shorter
EDC (Eau de Cologne) 2–5% oil — splash-style, short wear
Body mist 1–3% oil — dies fast, not a real perfume

Ingredient & chemistry terms

Term Meaning
Ambroxan Synthetic amber molecule — the modern clean-masculine signature
Aldehyde Sparkling, soapy, ‘champagne bubbles’ synthetic family — Chanel No 5’s signature
Iso E Super Woody, transparent, commonly used as a modern ‘glow’ note
Oud Resinous fragrant wood from infected Aquilaria trees — Arabic/Indian luxury ingredient
Civet / Musk Animalic base notes — mostly synthetic in modern perfumery
Coumarin Sweet, hay-like molecule — core of the fougere family

Family terms

Term Meaning
Gourmand Edible notes — vanilla, caramel, coffee, chocolate
Fougere Masculine family — lavender, coumarin, oakmoss
Chypre Bergamot + oakmoss + labdanum classic structure
Oriental Warm, spicy, resinous (amber, vanilla, incense)
Floriental Floral + oriental hybrid — most modern feminine EDPs

Market & buyer terms

Term Meaning
Niche Small-batch artistic perfumery (Creed, Kilian, MFK)
Designer Mass-market luxury (Dior, YSL, Chanel)
Dupe / Inspired-by Affordable reformulation of a designer scent
Flanker A variation of an existing perfume (e.g., Sauvage Elixir flanker of Sauvage)
Decant A small (5–10ml) sample transferred from a larger bottle
Batch code Manufacturing code — traces production date and batch
Splash bottle A perfume bottle without a spray — you tip liquid out
Atomiser The spray mechanism on a bottle

Experience & safety terms

Term Meaning
Olfactory fatigue Your brain filtering out a consistent smell — why you stop smelling your own perfume
Patch test Testing on inner elbow for 24 hours to check skin reaction
IFRA International Fragrance Association — global safety standards
Maceration Aging period (weeks/months) where the fragrance matures after bottling

FAQs

What’s the difference between a note and an accord?

A note is a single ingredient. An accord is a composition of several notes that acts as one identifiable ‘smell’.

Is ‘beast mode’ a real industry term?

It’s fragrance-community slang, not a manufacturer term. Means a scent with exceptional projection + longevity.

What should I read first — notes or accords?

Accords — they’re more descriptive. Notes tell you ingredients; accords tell you the vibe.

Do I need to know all these terms?

No. Learn them as you go. Start with: top/heart/base notes, EDP vs EDT, projection vs longevity. That covers 80% of reviews.

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